Skip to content
Best Pasta in Perugia: Where to Eat It and What to Order

Best Pasta in Perugia: Where to Eat It and What to Order

The quick version

Where to eat the best pasta in Perugia, from fresh umbricelli and strangozzi to trattorie and osterie in the centre, with the dish to order at each.

7 min readBy Fork & Piazza Editorial
Share this article:
On this page

The best pasta in Perugia is made in small workshops and family-run osterie rather than grand dining rooms, and the three names worth building a meal around are The Big Chef, Al Mangiar Bene and Osteria Mangiafuoco. Each does a different job: a fresh pasta counter and lunch bowl spot, a trattoria-pizzeria just off the centre, and an Umbrian osteria with a grill. This guide covers the local shapes to look for, what to order at each address and how to plan a pasta lunch or dinner around Perugia's closing-day rhythms.

What pasta in Perugia tastes like

Umbrian pasta is country cooking: egg-rich fresh pasta rolled and cut by hand, semolina shapes with a rough surface for holding sauce, and fillings built from the region's sheep's cheese, greens and cured pork. The sauces tend to be built rather than poured, with slow-cooked ragù, sausage, mushrooms and truffle showing up far more often than seafood. Expect floury, rustic textures rather than the silky smoothness of industrial pasta.

At The Big Chef in Perugia, the workshop works fresh flour and eggs daily into rough, fragrant sheets and filled shapes, plus slow-cooked sauces made in house. That gives you a fair picture of the local style: pasta built to carry a heavy sauce, with alternative flours such as farro, chestnut and hazelnut appearing alongside the classics.

Rooftops of Perugia's old town.
Rooftops of Perugia's old town. Photo: zyance, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons · Photo source · License

The local shapes to look for: umbricelli, strangozzi, cappelletti, caramelle and passatelli

Umbricelli and strangozzi are the region's signature hand-rolled shapes: thick, uneven strands of flour-and-water pasta, closer to a rough spaghetti than to tagliatelle, and served with robust meat or mushroom sauces. The Big Chef lists both among its fresh formats. If a menu offers them, order them over a generic spaghetti dish, because they are the shapes that define the place.

Cappelletti are small filled pasta hats, usually meat-stuffed and served in broth or with a light sauce, while caramelle are sweets-shaped filled twists with pinched ends. Passatelli are different again, made from breadcrumbs, cheese and egg rather than flour, giving a soft, savoury strand that sits well in a clear broth. All three appear on The Big Chef's list of formats alongside pappardelle, tagliatelle, gnocchi and sheets for lasagne.

Perugia Cathedral.
Perugia Cathedral. Photo: Parsifall, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons · Photo source · License

Where to eat pasta in Perugia: the picks

Sponsored

Match the venue to the moment. A weekday lunch or a takeaway dinner suits The Big Chef, a sit-down dinner with pizza for the table suits Al Mangiar Bene, and a long Umbrian meal with grilled meat suits Osteria Mangiafuoco. Perugia is a compact city, so the three addresses sit in different quarters and are easy to spread across a short stay.

The Big Chef: a fresh pasta workshop and lunch bowls on Via Gerardo Dottori

The Big Chef is a pasta workshop and gastronomia rather than a restaurant, on Via Gerardo Dottori at number 45 in the south of the city. Its counter sells fresh and filled pasta, house sauces and conserves, ready-made gastronomia and rosticceria, which is the Italian word for a hot counter of baked and fried savouries. Fresh pasta and rosticceria are also available to take away, including on Sundays.

For a sit-down lunch, the Chef Bowl is the thing to order: a bowl of fresh pasta cooked to order and dressed with the kitchen's sauces and seasonal ingredients, available to eat in or take away. It suits a solo traveller or a quick midday break when you want pasta without a full trattoria service. The workshop trades Tuesday to Saturday from 09:00 to 19:00 and Sunday mornings, and is closed on Mondays.

Al Mangiar Bene: a trattoria-pizzeria near the centre on Via della Luna

Al Mangiar Bene on Via della Luna, 21 is a trattoria-pizzeria that describes itself as a short-chain, largely organic project, buying directly from local farms and naming the producer of each ingredient on its menu. The kitchen pitches itself as home cooking in the regional mould, with pizzas served at dinner only. That makes it a useful two-in-one when one person wants pasta and another wants pizza.

Booking is by phone only, on 075 5731047; the restaurant does not take online reservations. It opens Monday evenings from 19:30 to 22:30 and Tuesday to Saturday for both lunch and dinner (12:30–14:30 and 19:30–22:30), and closes on Sundays.

Osteria Mangiafuoco: Umbrian plates and grilled meat on Via della Ferrovia

Sponsored

Osteria Mangiafuoco on Via della Ferrovia, 1 serves typical Umbrian dishes made with local ingredients, with a separate focus on Italian beef and other meats, cut and finished by hand and grilled to order. The grilled meats come with salad or hand-cut fried potatoes rather than pasta, so the sensible order is a pasta or Umbrian plate to start and a shared grill for the table. Portions are generous, which matters when you are ordering across courses.

It opens for lunch and dinner every day except Monday and Saturday lunch. Book by calling 348 423 8963 or 075 5057233, or by WhatsApp on the mobile number.

How to order pasta in Perugia: primi, portion sizes and sharing an antipasto

Pasta is a primo, the first course of an Italian meal, not the whole dinner. In an osteria or trattoria, the pattern is antipasto to share, a pasta each, then a secondo of meat or fish with a contorno of vegetables on the side. If you want pasta as your main, say so when ordering and skip the second course; nobody will mind, but the kitchen will pace the meal differently.

Ordering one antipasto for the table is the Umbrian way around large portions, and it leaves room for both pasta and a shared grill at an osteria such as Mangiafuoco. At Al Mangiar Bene, diners repeatedly single out the abundant portions in reviews quoted on the restaurant's own site, so a shared starter and one pasta each is a sensible structure for two.

Fresh pasta to take away: buying sfoglia and filled shapes by the weight

Buying fresh pasta at a workshop counter is the cheapest way to eat well in Perugia, and it travels. The Big Chef sells fresh pasta, filled shapes, lasagne and cannelloni sheets, sauces and conserves over the counter for cooking at home, and keeps a selection of weekend gastronomia and rosticceria ready to eat. Order by weight, ask for a sauce recommendation to match the shape, and remember that fresh egg pasta cooks in a couple of minutes.

Booking, closing days and Sunday eating in Perugia

Closing days decide your week more than any menu. Across these three, Monday is the meal to plan around: The Big Chef and Osteria Mangiafuoco both shut that day and Al Mangiar Bene opens only in the evening. Sunday is the reverse, with The Big Chef open in the morning for takeaway and both restaurants closed for lunch; Osteria Mangiafuoco serves lunch and dinner throughout Sunday.

Book the osteria and trattoria by phone the day before, and treat the pasta workshop as the flexible option because its counter and Chef Bowl lunch need no reservation.

What pasta dishes to order first if you only have one meal in Perugia

Sponsored

With one meal, choose a filled or hand-rolled Umbrian shape you cannot easily find at home, such as cappelletti, caramelle, passatelli or umbricelli, and pair it with a slow-cooked meat sauce. If the meal is dinner and the table wants pizza too, Al Mangiar Bene covers both. If the meal is lunch and you want to keep moving, a Chef Bowl at The Big Chef does the job in under an hour.

Leave room for the city's sweet side afterwards, since Perugia's chocolate tradition is a genuine part of eating here, from the Baci Perugina hazelnut-and-chocolate confection to the shops that sell it.

Which Perugia pasta stop suits your day?

For lunch, pick The Big Chef on Via Gerardo Dottori and order a Chef Bowl or a tray of fresh pasta to take away. For dinner with pizza, ring Al Mangiar Bene on Via della Luna, and for an Umbrian meal with grilled meat, book Osteria Mangiafuoco on Via della Ferrovia. Check the day against their closing patterns before you set out, since Monday thins the choice sharply.

Explore more Perugia food guides

Sources

Sponsored

Notes for your next meal in Italy

Optional updates to our food guides.

No spam. Unsubscribe anytime.

Continue reading

More guides you'll find useful